Chemical Peels, Dermabrasion, Microdermabrasion for Aging Skin and Scars | Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Renova (Tretinoin)

Microdermabrasion and Chemical Peels

Microdermabrasion and chemical peels are two ways that aging skin can look better and seem rejuvenated. Dermabrasion is a way of sanding off the outer layers of skin, for scar removal. Other exfoliating methods include creams such as Renova, exfoliating brushes and sponges, and alpha hydroy acids.

Chemical peels

Chemical peels are very strong. Dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons use chemical peels to improve skin texture and appearance. Chemical pees use a chemical solution that removes the skin's outer layers. This can be helpful for those individuals with acne, wrinkles and age spots. Some of the chemical used for facial peels include:

• Phenol
• trichloroacetic acid (TCA)
• alphahydroxy acids (AHAs)

AHAs used in chemical peels - such as glycolic, lactic, or fruit acids - are considered the mildest of the peel chemicals. Even so, the alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs used are at a much higher concentration that you would buy in the store for dry skin. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) comes in different concentrations, and is considered for medium-depth peeling. Phenol is the strongest chemical and produces the deepest peel. It is essential that anyone - especially if you are considering a deeper peel - see a qualified board certified cosmetic surgeon or dermatologist.

Chemical peels can be very risky. Potential issues include infection and scarring. You will need to discuss with your doctor which type of peel is best for you. Some chemical peel procedures may need to be done more than once. After an AHA peel, there will be stinging, redness, irritation and crusting. A TCA peel will produce even stronger stinging, redness, irritation and crusting. There may also be color changes in the skin. A phenol peel will cause the greatest amount of crusting. It will also affect your skin's pigment. It is essential that after any peel, you use sun protection

Dermabrasion and microdermabrasion

Dermabrasion - This is a procedure, called dermabrasion or dermaplaning, in which you sand down the upper layers of the skin with either a rapidly rotating wire brush or other instrument. During this procedure, the damaged top layer of skin is removed, leaving skin smoother. Dermabrasion is most often used for scar removal, for example acne scars. Dermabrasion can take anywhere from a few minutes to an hour, depending on how large an area is being done. For example, you could have a dermabrasion done on the chin or cheeks alone, or you could have a full-face dermabrasion. Your skin may be first injected with a local anesthesia in order to numb it. After about a week, you should see an improvement in the way the skin looks. It is essential that only a qualified dermatologist or plastic surgeon do this type of procedure.

Microdermabrasion - This is a less drastic type of exfoliating of the skin. Microdermabrasion is popular in spas and doctors' offices. The procedure involves a light abrasion, using either tiny crystals, fine particles, a diamond-head tool or a roughened surface. Microdermabrasion may leave the skin looking red, but you do not get the raw blistering of a regular dermabrasion.

Exfoliating creams

Over-the-counter creams and lotions that can exfoliate your skin can contain milder versions of chemicals used in chemical peels. But you still need to be careful. If you have mature skin or older skin, you can irritate the skin if you overdo. But, done correctly, exfoliation can help make the skin look better and give you younger looking skin.

Over-the-counter, for the face, there are many exfoliating creams and lotions available. Some of these creams and lotions contain fine grains that do the exfoliation. There are also lotions that use a mild acid to peel the skin, such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or salicylic acids (beta hydroxy acid or BHAs). When you use such lotions it is sometimes called micro dermabrasion. The lotions can also be considered mild chemical peels. In addition, there are prescription creams called retinoids, such as Retin-A and Renova, can also cause the upper layers of dead skin to shed more quickly. For older skin, Renova is considered less irritating than Retin-A.

But no matter what product you use, if you have any skin conditions, always talk to your doctor before starting a new procedure. It's also important to start slowly, testing any new procedure on a small patch of skin to make sure you're not overly sensitive.

If you are using a cream or lotion with exfoliating grains to rejuvenate your skin, just wet your skin, apply the product and rub with gently all over the face. There are also special pads you can use on the face. Be very careful to avoid sensitive areas of the skin such as under the eyes.

You can also use exfoliating creams on your body, or a loofah sponge, glove or brush.

If you are using Renova, or a lotion containing alpha hydroxy acid or salicylic acid, follow the directions on the bottle. In general, you would first gently clean your skin, and then apply the lotion. Remember, you're skin will be sensitive, so do not use scrubbing products on top of these creams. After exfoliating, rinse the skin, and then apply a good moisturizer

When you "slough off." dead skin cells, it's important to avoid over exfoliating the skin, as this can cause it to dry out, or become red, angry looking and irritated. Remember too that after exfoliating your skin - especially if you use a product with tretinoin or AHAs - you may become more vulnerable to sunburn, so make sure you use sun protection such as sunscreen or sun protective clothing.

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Updated May 2008

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