Anti-Aging Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) | Lactic and Glycolic Acid for Wrinkles and Age Spots

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

For aging skin, alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs basically act as exfoliants. In other words, they speed up the process of shedding the topmost layer of skin cells, helping to give the appearance of younger looking skin. This can help the appearance of mature skin, by improving its texture.

How do alpha hydroxy acids work

AHAs can also help to improve the appearance of fine wrinkles, age spots and skin discolorations, as well as rough and splotchy skin. AHAs act like exfoliants. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH (acidity), and other ingredients in the product. Most cosmetics sold to consumers contain AHAs at levels up to 10 percent. This can be useful for older skin and aging skin, because it results in a smoother look to the skin's surface.

To find out if a cosmetic, lotion or cream contains an AHA, look on the list of ingredients. AHA ingredients may be listed ain different ways. The two most common in cosmetics are:

• glycolic acid
• lactic acid

You may also find:

• L-alpha hydroxy acid
• tri-alpha hydroxy fruit acids
• triple fruit acid
• sugar cane extract
• malic acid and/or citric acid
• glycolic acid + ammonium glycolate
• alpha-hydroxyethanoic acid + ammonium alpha-hydroxyethanoate
• alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid, alpha-hydroxycaprylic acid, or hydroxycaprylic acid
• mixed fruit acid
• alpha hydroxy and botanical complex
• glycomer in crosslinked fatty acids alpha nutrium (three AHAs)

The most frequently used in cosmetics are glycolic acid and lactic acid, according to the US Food and Drug Administration.

Products with AHAs are marketed for a variety of things. For older skin, the most significant are:

• to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles
• to improve skin texture and tone
• to unblock pores

AHAs can also help to improve oily skin and acne.

It is important to follow the use instructions on the label. Do not exceed the recommended applications. Make sure you test any product on a small area of skin to see if it causes irritation, and if it does, don't use the product.

AHAs may make users more sensitive to sunlight and especially to the ultraviolet (UV) radiation component of sunlight. UV exposure can damage the skin and at high doses, especially over a long period, can cause skin cancer. That's why sun protection is essential if you are using AHA lotions or AHA creams on your skin. Use a good sunscreen or wear sun protective clothing and hats to protect your skin from sunburn. FDA says it is important to use sun protection, including a sun screen, if you use an AHA product, even if you haven't used the product that day. If you use the AHA at bedtime, be sure to apply an additional sunscreen in the morning before going into the sun.

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Updated May 2008

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